To insert: Remove screws and plexi cover. 40 pin header goes on the side with fewer of the tall female headers. Be careful of the 1 pin header right next to the 40 pins and the row of single pins on the opposite side. Replace screws, the 2 on the HDMI port side go through the IO board.
ONLY USE VGA JUMPER IF YOU KNOW YOU NEED IT.
BOM at the GitHub Repo.
According to the schematic, P6, P5, P2, and D2 are not included. Only pins 1, 2, and 3-8 on P7 are connected.
P5 controls the LEDs on the board and are connected by default. There is a trace to cut on the bottom of the board to disable the LEDs which can then be re-enabled either with a jumper on P5 or a switch. This is left unpopulated.
P8 can be used with a jumper to put voltage on pin 9 of the VGA port. Do not use this unless you know what you are doing as some VGA monitors ground pin 9.
From the Github:
Convenient order of manual soldering:
(THT parts are in order of height from shortest to tallest to facilitate flipping)
- resistors, capacitors, diodes, transistor
- SD socket
- Headphone Jack, fan header, SOG switch
- P3 and P4 connectors
- I2S and VGA PWR headers (optional)
- LED 1-3
- LED4 is bent and locked into place, and VGA and USB3 connectors lock into place.
- P7, P9
- Remove sticker
- Desolder cable
- Cut cable to length, strip, tin
- Reconnect cable (red goes on the right)
- Replace sticker
- Push nuts into the 3 spots on the fan that will get screws
- Connect fan and screw in from the bottom, pulling the nuts the rest of the way into the fan holes.
P7, P9 Notes
- Cut connector to 8 pins
- Remove 3rd pin (use for P9)
- Insert pins through IO board into DE10-Nano
- Solder from top
- Trim pins flush
And finally, here are the orientations of the LEDs, tantalum capacitors, and diode: